The Pain Was the Prize: 55 Summits and an Everest–Lhotse Record. A WORLD FIRST.

Nimsdai on the summit of Lhotse without supplemental O2

The Pain Was the Prize: 55 Summits and an Everest–Lhotse Record.

A WORLD FIRST.

People often ask me why I keep going back to the mountains. The answer is simple: records are meant to be challenged, and I will always lead from the front.

On 27th of May, I stood proudly on the summit of Everest for the 10th time, without supplemental oxygen, marking my 54th successful summit of the world's 14 highest peaks. I then went on to break another record, previously set by myself, setting the fastest time from the summit of Everest to the summit of Lhotse in just 13 hours and 42 minutes. Standing on the summit of Lhotse marked my 55th successful summit of the world's 14 highest peaks, making the achievement even more special.

What many people do not see are the sacrifices behind these milestones. Before the summit push, I spent an additional 24 hours at Camp 4, meaning two full days in the Death Zone above 8,000 metres without supplemental oxygen. While managing our expedition team, my priority remained my clients: making sure they were prepared, fed, motivated, and safe. Leading from the front has always been my philosophy, and that responsibility never stops, even at 8,000 metres.

Nimsdai leading from the front - on his way to the Everest summit without supplemental O2

After summiting Everest for the 10th time without supplemental oxygen, I wasn't finished. I wanted to push beyond the pain barrier, not for recognition, but to test myself and better understand the limits of human endurance. So, I set my sights on the Everest-to-Lhotse speed record.

Fresh snowfall had erased the route, forcing me to break trail through deep snow and uncover fixed ropes with every step. The mountain presented challenge after challenge, but quitting has never been in my DNA.

When I stood on the summit of Lhotse just 13 hours and 42 minutes after standing on the summit of Everest, I had not only set a new world record, I had significantly improved my previous one and become the only person in the world to climb Everest and Lhotse back-to-back without supplemental oxygen.
But the record was never the real reward. The real prize was the pain, the discomfort, and the opportunity to discover what is possible when the body wants to stop, but the mind refuses to quit.

As I reflect on this journey, from serving in the military to standing on the highest mountains on Earth, I often think back to my childhood in Nepal and the values that shaped me from an early age: resilience, hard work, humility, and never being afraid to dream beyond your circumstances. I am proud of what I have achieved and the people who have stood beside me throughout this mission. The discipline, resilience, and mindset forged through my military career became the foundation for everything that followed.

But more importantly, this legacy is not just about summits or records. It is about shining a light on the big mountains, the people who call them home, and the incredible strength, spirit, and heritage of the Himalayas.

Every achievement I make on these peaks is also a tribute to Nepal and to the generations of mountain people whose courage, skill, and sacrifice have shaped the history of mountaineering. Ever since Project Possible in 2019, this journey has never been about numbers. It has always been about proving what is possible when you commit fully, stay disciplined, and refuse to quit. Every milestone is an opportunity to challenge perceptions, raise the bar, and inspire others to believe that seemingly impossible goals can become reality. Every mountain teaches humility. Every expedition demands sacrifice. Every summit is a reminder that the mind will always give up before the body does. This milestone belongs to my team, my family, our Sherpas, supporters, and everyone who believes that impossible can become possible.

The mission continues, and I will never give up – we grow together.